enter the town. a handful of kilometers behind us, a landslide takes down four carloads of people. cross the bridge. see an old donkey being disposed off - one small push, and he tumbles down the mountainside. the town is a clutter of rushed architecture and changing demographic profile - but some laws of living and dying remain the same. watched yaks amble past the hidimba temple. overheard a slow swaying conference of fir canopies. it is snowing in the mountainline above-head. my reading companion is the epic. fitting.